You can download these instructions as a PDF here: 66-77 Early Ford Bronco Suspension Lift Kit Installation
Introduction to installing a Bronco suspension lift kit
Installation requires a professional mechanic. Prior to beginning, inspect the vehicles steering, driveline, brake systems, paying close attention to the suspension link arms and bushings, anti-sway bars and bushings, tie rod ends, pitman arm, ball joints and wheel bearings. Also check the steering sector-to-frame and all suspension-to-frame attaching points for stress cracks. The overall vehicle must be in excellent working condition; repair or replace all
worn parts.
Read instructions several times before starting. Be sure you have all needed parts and know where they install. Read each step completely as you go.
Notes:
- Front-end realignment is necessary.
- This Base Lift System contains no hardware for modifying or relocating the suspensions compression travel bump stops. Generally, bump stop modification is not required except for competition style offroading. For severe offroading, extension travel limiting straps are also recommended.
- FRONT/REAR DRIVESHAFT LENGTH – Generally, with a suspension lift of 2.5” & over, rear driveline must be lengthened. Front driveline should be adequate up to 3.5” lifts. Typically with 5.5” lifts, front driveline must be lengthened. We recommend 1.5” minimum spline contact with suspension at full extension travel.
- With most lifts 3.5” or taller, track-bar, vent hose and brake hose length must be addressed along with caster angle.
- A foot-pound torque reading is given in parenthesis ( ) after each appropriate fastener.
- Do not fabricate any components to gain additional suspension height.
- Prior to drilling or cutting or welding, check behind the surface being worked on for any wires, lines or fuel hoses that could be damaged.
- After drilling, file smooth any burrs and sharp edges.
- Prior to attaching components, be sure all mating surfaces are free of grit, grease, undercoating, etc.
- A factory service manual should be on hand for reference. We recommend the Chilton’s Repair Manual.
How to Install an Early Ford Bronco Suspension Lift Kit
Front procedure to installing Bronco Suspension Lift Kit
1. PREPARE VEHICLE
Put transmission in neutral. Position a floor jack under front axle and raise vehicle. Secure jack stands under the frame rails, a few inches behind the radius arm-to-frame brackets. Ease down the jack until frame is resting on stands. Keep a slight load on jack. Put vehicle in gear or park, set emergency brake and chock rear wheels to prevent any possibility of movement.
2. BRAKE HOSES/PITMAN ARM
Front brake hose, if being replaced, should be installed now. If stock hose is retained, it must be in good condition. Check for chafed spots, cracks and dry rot.
3. TIRES/SHOCKS
Remove tires and shocks. On either side, remove the coil springs upper retaining strap. Loosen, but do not remove, the two bolts attaching the coil/seat to the axle.
If installing front hoop shocks, do this now.
4. COIL SPRINGS
Lower jack enough to allow for coils removal. Do not overextend brake and axle vent hoses; both may need rerouting or replacing. Rotate the coils out of their lower seats.
NOTE: If applicable, install C-bushings, radius arm bushings, and/or radius arm lowering brackets.
Install new coils. Usually, the coils bottoms can be rotated into the seats without the two-piece seats being completely disassembled. Upper retaining straps may require reforming to properly fit the large diameter coil wire.
5. PITMAN ARM
If applicable, install drop pitman arm and adjustable drag link.
6. SHOCKS
Install bushings, sleeves and boots on shock absorbers.
Install new shocks. Tighten upper stem type bushings or sleeveless eye type bushings only until they swell slightly. Torque lower bolts (40-60).
7. TIRES/WHEELS
[Diagram 1] Tighten the lug nuts in the sequence shown.
WARNING: When the tires/wheels are installed, always check for and remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign material on the wheel mounting surface or anything that contacts the wheel-mounting surface (hub, rotor, etc.). Installing wheels without the proper metal-to-metal contact at the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the lug nuts to loosen and the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion.
WARNING: Retighten lug nuts at 500 miles after any wheel change, or anytime the lug nuts are loosened. Failure to do so could cause wheels to come off while vehicle is in motion.
8. CLEARANCE CHECK
With the vehicle still on jack stands and the suspension hanging at full extension travel, cycle steering lock-to-lock and check all components for proper operation and clearances. Pay special attention to the clearance between the tires/wheels and brake hoses, wiring, etc.
Lower vehicle to the floor.
Rear procedure to installing Bronco Suspension Lift Kit
9. PREPARE VEHICLE
Raise rear of vehicle with a floor jack positioned under the rear axle. Place jack stands under the frame rails, a few inches in front of the rear springs front hangers. Ease the jack down until the frame is resting on the stands. Keep a slight load on the jack. Chock front tires to prevent possibility of movement.
Remove tires, U-bolts and shocks. Lower the axle by easing down the jack. Do not overextend the brake and axle vent hoses; both may need rerouting or replacing.
If installing rear dual shock mounts, do this now (see separate instructions).
NOTE: If a longer rear hose is to be installed, pinch closed the factory rubber hose with vise grips or a small C-clamp, and disconnect at the axle mounted T-block. Hose installation is performed in Step 12.
WARNING: The spring perches, where the leaf springs seat on the axle, are prone to collapse or warp, especially toward the ends. Without a perfectly flat mounting surface, the block may fail or “roll” out from under the vehicle. If not flat, replate the perches with ¼” thick steel plate (or something similar) or replace perches completely.
10. ADD-A-LEAFS
Perform the following steps if add-a-leafs have been purchased. If not, proceed to the next step.
With a C-clamp positioned close to each wrap, bend wraps out of the way.
Now reposition the clamp next to the center bolt and remove bolt. Be careful when removing C-clamp since the leafs are “loaded” and will “spring” apart when released. The leaf installs directly underneath the main, which is the longest one with mounting eyes. Remember to stack the leaf plates in the proper pyramid order – progressively longer from bottom to top.
Re-compress the spring pack with the C-clamp, not the center bolt, to avoid stripping the bolt/nut threads. After tightening, trim excess bolt.
Place a C-clamp beside each spring wrap, prior to installing or re-forming, to ensure total pack compression. If heat is used on the wraps, allow them to cool naturally and thoroughly before removing C-clamps.
11. LEAF SPRINGS
If new leaf springs are being installed, remove the U-bolt attaching nuts and remove the two U-bolts and the spring clip plate. Lower the axle to relieve the spring tension and remove the nut from the spring front attaching bolt. Remove the spring front attaching bolt from the spring and hanger with a drift. Remove the nut from the shackle-to-hanger attaching bolt and drive the bolt from the shackle and hanger with a drift and remove the spring from the vehicle. Remove the nut from the spring rear attaching bolt. Drive the bolt out of the spring and shackle with a drift.
NOTE: On all 11 pack leaf springs the military double wrap will face the front of the vehicle. When installing the 3.5” 5-pack leaf springs, the curved eyelet end will mount to the rear for shackle clearance or to avoid shackle bind.
Install the new leaf spring by first positioning the shackle (closed section facing toward the front of the vehicle) to the spring rear eye and install the bolt and nut.
Position the spring front eye and bushing to the spring front hanger, and install the attaching bolt and nut. Position the spring rear eye and bushing to the shackle, and install the attaching bolt and nut.
12. U-BOLTS, SHOCKS & TIRES
Raise the axle to the spring and install the U-bolts and spring clip plate. Torque the U-bolt nuts and spring front and rear attaching bolt nuts (45-60).
U-BOLT TORQUE GUIDE
Description — Plated (lb-ft) — Plain Finish (lb-ft)
½” dia, up to 13” long — 57 — 92
9/16” dia, up to 13 ½” long — 82 — 131
9/16” dia, 13 ½” and longer — 106 — 185
5/8” dia, up to 14 ½” long — 112 — 181
5/8” dia, 14 ½” and longer — 145 — 256
Install new shocks and tires, then lower the vehicle to the floor.
If applicable, install new rear brake hose.
13. FINAL CLEARANCE and TORQUE CHECK
With vehicle on floor, cycle steering lock-to-lock and inspect the tires/wheels, and the
steering, suspension and brake systems for proper operation, tightness and adequate clearance.
14. Activate four wheel drive system and check front hubs for engagement
15. HEADLIGHTS
Readjust headlights to proper setting.
16. ALIGNMENT
Camber angle was not significantly altered by the suspension lift. Caster should have been
maintined with the use of C-bushings and/or radius arm lowering brackets. Have toe-in
setting checked.
IMPORTANT PRODUCT USE INFORMATION
As a general rule, the taller a vehicle is, the easier it will roll over. As much as possible, offset what is lost in roll over resistance by increasing tire track width. In other words, go “wide” as you go “tall”. Many sportsmen remove their mud tires after winter/hunting season and install ones more appropriate for street driving; always use as wide a tire and wheel combination as possible to enhance vehicle stability.
We strongly recommend, because of roll over possibility, that the vehicle be equipped with a functional roll bar and cage system. Seat belts and shoulder harnesses should be worn at all times. Avoid situations where a side rollover may occur.
Generally, braking performances and capabilities are decreased when significantly larger/heavier tires and wheels are used. Take this into consideration while driving.
Do not add, alter of fabricate any factory or aftermarket parts to increase vehicle height over the intended height of the lift kit purchased. Mixing component brands is not recommended.
Most states have some type of law limiting vehicle height. The amount of lift allowed, and how the lift may be achieved, varies greatly. Several states offer exemptions for farm or commercially registered vehicles. It is the owner’s responsibility to check state and local laws to ensure that their vehicle will be in compliance.
Tom’s Bronco Parts makes no claims regarding lifting devices and excludes any and all implied claims. Tom’s Bronco Parts will not be responsible for any altered product or any improper installation or use of our products. We will be happy to answer any questions concerning the design, function and correct use of our products.
IMPORTANT MAINTENANCE INFORMATION
It is the ultimate buyer’s responsibility to have all bolts/nuts checked for tightness after the first 100 miles and then every 1000 miles. A qualified professional mechanic should inspect the steering, suspension and driveline systems, along with wheel alignment at least every 3000 miles.
Hi there
I would like to know if you have any photos showing from stock 1974 bronco then different photos showing what the truck looks like with the different heights to show me what my truck would look like with the different heights so i can discide what height I would like to go This would be highly apresheated Thank you very much
Hey Adam, that’s a good idea. We have been saying we should do that for a while now but just haven’t gotten to it. I will have one of my guys here work on compiling some photos. When it’s ready, we’ll post it on this blog. Thanks for the comment.
what size lift do i need to run 33″ tires and will a 4″ offset be enough for the wheels
If your Bronco is cut for Fender Flares, you should be able to run 33′s with a 2.5″ lift or higher. As far as backspacing, 4″ on your typical 8″-10″ wide wheel should be adequate.
Not sure what you mean by backspacing? or offset?
INSTRUCTIONS TO MEASURE WHEEL BACKSPACING AND OFFSET
. (For most accurate results, take these measurements on the wheel without a tire mounted)
WHEEL BACKSPACING – To measure wheel backspacing, lay the wheel face downon the ground so that the back side of the wheel is facing upward. Lay a straight edge across the top of the wheel. Take a tape measure and measure the distance between the hub mounting pad of the wheel and where the straight edge meets the top of the wheel. The measuring tape should be held perpendicular to the straight edge for an accurate measurement.
WHEEL OFFSET – To measure the wheel offset, first follow the above directions to measure the wheel backspacing. Once you have this measurement, you will need to get the wheel center line measurement. For the wheel center line measurement, measure the width of the wheel from outer edge to inner edge and divide by 2. Once you have these two measurements, subtract the Wheel Center Line from the Wheel Backspace (Wheel Backspace – Wheel Center Line). This is the wheel offset. Depending on the wheel, it could be positive or negative.
I just bought a 1966 Bronco and wanting to put some P265X75X15′s on it but they won’t clear the wheel wells. What can I do without adding an expensive lift kit? I recently purchased a driveshaft from you and don’t want to go through the expense of changing that, plus I want to keep it as stock as possible with the exception of the new wheels I just bought to put on. It currently has the orginal leaf springs and they appear as though they are sagging. Also, the driver side front fender does not line up with the hood. Any suggestions? Could it be an aftermarket fender was added? Thanks, I am sure I will be doing quite a bit of business with you because I already love this old Bronco.
Thanks,
Steve
Hi Steve. You can go with a 2.5″ lift kit on your 66 Bronco. It would not look stock per se to a person familiar with the Early Broncos, but it would look like it could have been stock (not an obviously oversized lift). This would give you clearance for the tires you are trying to use without having to cut the fenders. The other option would be a 2″ body lift, but this will create spacing between the body and the frame and cause visible gaps between the body and the bumpers if you are using stock bumpers. We also offer a 1″ body lift kit which may work but would likely not be quite enough for clearance. Give us a call at 800-749-5028 if you have more questions about this. Thanks.
-Tom’s Bronco Parts
I’m looking to run 32 or 33″ tires on my 69 Bronco, I already installed a 1″ body lift kit to accommodate the NV3550 transmission kit I got from you and am wondering how much if any tire size I gain because of the 1″ body lift. I would like to run a 2.5″ suspension lift kit, if that will give me the clearance I need in addition to the body lift. Also, the rear fenders are cut and have flares, the front fenders are uncut. Will the 2.5″ lift do it, or would I have to go to 3.5″ to accommodate 32-33″ tires?
A 2.5″ suspension lift and 1″ body lift should allow you to clear 32′s or 33′s just fine. Depending on the exact tire size/wheel spacing you may find a small amount of trimming necessary on the front if you run 33′s.
My bronco is used. Already had a suspension lift but I don’t know how much. I want to go just a bit higher. How can I tell how much lift it has? It also has a 2″ body lift. With 35″ tire son it now, it would be difficult to compare factory measurements with what I have.
Measure from the top of the front axle housing to the bottom of the frame. Stock is about 7″ so you can take your measurement and subtract 7 from that and you have your lift height. i.e. if your measurement is 10.5″ then you have a 3.5″ lift (10.5 – 7 = 3.5)
I’m looking at ’74 that has a 3″ lift, seller is not sure of the brand. If I wanted to drop to just a 2.5″ lift, could I just get the 2.5″ coils or would I have to get the entire 2.5 kit?
Thanks
First, it’d be good to verify that it really has a 3″ lift and not more or less. If you measure from the top of the front axle housing to the bottom of the frame, you should get about 10″ if it is a 3″ lift. Once you know your true lift amount the other questions become a bit easier to answer. You should be able to replace the coils and leafs only to go from 3″ to 2.5″ but you may find that the shocks compress too much if they are on the verge with the 3″ suspension lift. Also, it would be good to know if the previous owner of the Bronco put drop track bar bracket and drop pitman arm in because you would not want to run those with a 2.5″ lift. Finally, there is a small possibility that the front driveline could be too long if the driveline was extended so getting the collapsed & extended measurements of the driveshaft would be a good idea as well. Hope this answers some of your questions. Thanks.
I currently undertook a “remodel” of a 1969 bronco and I was pretty set on a 2.5 inch lift but have concerns regarding the radius arms and whether or not I will need different ones to accumulate for the angle/pitch change when they insert inside of the bracket that is mounted to the frame? I also was wondering whether or not I would need a longer rear driveshaft because the prior lift was stock? And would I need shims for when I get new leaf springs and will my old tracking/sway bar work?
If you put a 2.5″ suspension lift on your 69 Bronco the radius arms will be fine. Our lift kits include 7 degree c-bushings which will accomodate for the change in angle where the radius arm caps wrap around the front differential housing. There is a high likelihood that you will need an extended rear driveshaft when you do the lift but we have seen customers run their early Broncos with a 2.5″ suspension lift and a stock driveshaft. It just typically pushes the driveshaft to its limits as far as extension is concerned and will wear on the driveshaft much more quickly. You usually won’t need leaf spring shims with a 2.5″ lift so I would install the kit without them and then add them if necessary. Hope this answers your questions. Thanks.
-Tom’s Bronco Parts
I bough a 70′s half cab with a 3.5″ lift. When driving on a less than smooth road or going through a fair size dip, the steering on this truck is almost not manageble. I have had the truck in the air and looked for all of the obvious things, loose tie rods, steering knuckels or drag links. There is no uneven wear on the front tire and hands on checks find the front end to be solid. The steering stabilizer is shot and will be replaced. Are there other front end componants I can look at replacing or adjusting to help tighten up the front end?
Thanks
Brian T.
Hi Brian. Changing the stabilizer is good if it is shot but will not fix these problems. The stabilizer is basically there to dampen the movement of the front end, but it only helps to mask underlying issues. Some of the best things to check when you are having issues like steering wander and such is to make sure that all your suspension bushings are in good shape. Slop in the bushings or incorrectly installed bushings can allow things to move all over the place. You can also check to make sure the front end is perfectly centered under the frame. The best way to do this is to get an adjustable tracking bar which will allow you to adjust it fully to center. You should also have a drop pitman arm and a drop tracking bar bracket with a 3.5″ lift so if you don’t have these you should get them. Finally, you can check your tie rods to make sure the ends still have resistance and don’t just slop all over the place and have an alignment shop check your caster and camber. Hope some of this helps. Good luck.
-Garrett
Tom’s Bronco Parts
I have a stock uncut 71 that has been restored. What max tire size can i get away with with no lift, and then possibly a 1″ body lift. I’m trying to keep it as original as possible.
Hi Joe. My 72 Bronco is stock height and uncut and I run 235/75r15′s on it. They are about perfect in size and fit the Bronco very well while still looking stock. If you add the body lift, you could probably run something around a skinny 30″ tire. Thanks.
Garrett
TBP